THE FREESOUL PROJECT

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SURF - INDONESIA

Back in 2010 / 11 myself and my best mate Lloyd headed out to Indonesia. The first year we spent a month in Bali and the second year 2 months travelling around Java, Bali and Lombok. Being average surfers from Wales this was a dream trip for us and after the first year we were addicted and did what we had to do to go back the following year.

Indonesia is perhaps the best place to surf in the world and is a true tropical paradise. The amount of world class waves dotted over the different islands is pretty insane and there's something for everyone from beginners to pro's. Whilst many of the stories from these trips aren't fit for human consumption, we had the best time and met some amazing people who will be friends for life. Indonesia is a special place and the people are just the most friendly, welcoming and helpful people you could ask for, I look forward to returning sometime soon and Indo will always have a special place in my heart.



BALI AND LOMBOK

Bali is just crazy. It's a huge culture shock when you arrive for the first time. But it doesn't take long for it to feel like home. The majority of the people in Bali are practicing Hindu's and are just so peaceful, welcoming and friendly. Everywhere you go there are small offerings from the locals to the Hindu gods. Made from bamboo leaves and flowers, they can contain anything from sweets, to money, even cigarettes. The burning incense floods the air with beautiful, myserious scents. The whole vibe on the island is just great, even though it's full to the brim with tourists from all over the world it's just dreamy.

Perfect, crystal clear seas with ruler edged waves in abundance. Long, hot nights with spectacular sunsets, you just can't not feel happy and at peace in Bali. That said, the traffic is another story, it's just insane. We got chatting to this Aussie dude and he said: "There are rules, but no one knows what they are!". There are no lanes or lines. It's just one big road with people going left, right, up, down and anyway they can to get where they need to be.

In the first year we just stayed in Bali, and surfed some of the legendary waves on the Bukit Penninsula like Bingin, Uluwatu, Dreamlands, Balanagan, Impossibles and also ventured further out to Balian and the small island of Nusa Lembongan just off Bali. The waves are long, fast, hollow and shallow and there were certainly times when we were out of our depth. Apart from a few cuts and scrapes we survived and knew we had to return the following summer and do some more exploring.



JAVA

In 2011, we hit Indo for the second time. We'd learned alot about the country, the people and grew in confidence surf wise. Coming from Wales and surfing pretty shocking waves most of the time Indo is a big step up. Having survived the first trip relatively unscathed we decided to venture our in to the wilds of Java. The spot we headed to was literally in the middle of nowhere and it took us 12 hours in a taxi to get to, 8 of which were stuck in a traffic jam in Jakarta. This added with the 26 hours and two flights from London, by the time I got there I was hallucinating. We were greated by a perfect left hander in the middle of what felt like the edge of the world. For two weeks we surfed this wave everyday with a small handful of guys from around the world. It really was a surfers dream.

After a fornight of pure surf bliss we headed back to the chaos of Bali, spent a few days partying and surfing before moving on to Lombok. Lombok is the next island closest to Bali and in 2011 was still very under developed. We rode through villages that had no electricity and limited water supplies on our moped searching for waves of which there were many. We also met some great friends who we still keep in touch with to this day. Having not been to Lombok for many years now apparently it has changed and is becoming very touristy and over developed, and very much like Bali. I think we were lucky to go at the time when it was still very much wild and quite edgy.


The Freesoul Project 2019 - Made in Wales