I first came across you when our friend Chris Murphy told me about you charging Ulu's at 12-15ft. I was pretty blown away by it to be honest. As time has gone on you have continued to charge some big, heavy, and dangerous waves around the world. Was there a turning point for you where you just thought fuck it, I can do this or have you just built up your confidence over time and experience in the water?
Being from Wales, even paddling out at 6ft Ulus is scary enough to begin with! I think I did make some dodgy decisions to paddle out when I was younger in waves I really shouldn’t. But it’s only when you make it back to land (not always in one piece!) you realise what your head/body can handle. The only way to get comfortable is to surf out of your depth and keep pushing yourself. These days though, I’m more about having fun, and there’s no fun spending hours working out how your going to get back to dry land alive and not actually catching a wave!
You have surfed some of the heaviest and most dangerous waves in the world, how do you deal with fear? And, have you ever thought oh shit I'm in way over my depth here, any really scary experiences?
I believe it’s more about the power, depth and location of where the wave breaks that makes it daunting. Not so much the size. I’ve had 20ft waves on my head and it wasn’t too bad, then a 4-6ft on a slab almost kill me! In my eyes - Pipe is the heaviest wave, it’s heavy, shallow, shifty and very crowded. Even if you make a good wave, the chances are the one behind will destroy you straight after. At backdoor, there is no channel!